Amalfi Coast

One of the many cities and/or villages along the Amalfi Coast.

A house built in the mountain, less taxes that way.......

A house and a patio on the Amalfi coast with their private beach

Capri's harbor from the ferry

Capri from the ferry pulling away

If you thought US 1 down the California coast was something, be prepared to be blown away by the Amalfi coast. Zipped south to the wrong end of Amalfi on the Autostrade and drove back up SE to NW to Sorrento. Unbelievable villages seeming to slide down the hills to the sea. A road that isn't merely a marvel of construction, it's a miracle! Stunning views at every turn and the usual platoons of kamikaze drivers. Stopped when we could and finally wound through Sorrento to catch the ferry for Capri. Fifty Euros later, car and passengers were unloaded in Capri Town (only cars owned by residents or foreigners can go to the island, no Italians). Cute as it may be, there is simply no provision made for cars. Try as I might, I couldn't find the way out of town, nor even a parking spot (though one guy would let us in if we left our keys. No thanks.). To the eternal disappointment of Reggie, we caught the ferry to Naples and the Autostrade to Pompei. I'll never live down the fact that we went to Capri and didn't stay.

Vesuvius - Sept. 29th

Vesuvius from our B&B in Boscoreale

Vesuvius' caldera to prove that we were there

Pompeii from Vesuvius

Naples from Vesuvius

Breakfast at the B&B, then headed up to the Vesuvius National Park where we boarded a purpose-built all-terrain Mercedes bus that was clearly at home on mountains, deserts or tundra, and climbed the rough, tortuous road to the 1,000-meter mark. That trip is not recommended for anyone suffering from vertigo or motion sickness! The puny, two-foot high stone guard-rails petered out with the cobblestone road surface, and only flimsy, wooden railings lined what could charitably be called a path, the rest of the way. Hairy.

At the turn-around, we disembarked and began the 800 meter-long footpath (similarly vertiginous) to the summit at 1167 meters above sea-level. The view of Naples, Pompei and Boscoreale (where we’re staying) is stupendous. It’s clear why Pompei didn’t stand a chance when the eruption occurred.

An hour and a half is allotted for the climb up, sight-seeing, and the climb down to catch the return bus. We staggered back down in time to do so, took another hairy and somewhat faster ride back down to our car and scurried off to Naples to find a MacD’s for WiFi and if necessary, lunch.

Well! Naples is dirty, chaotic and hopelessly congested with endless tiny streets swimming in dented cars and death-defying motorcyclists, all determined to be in whatever unmarked lane you think you are in. Clearly half of the city is under construction or repair at any given time and though Mable tried valiantly to get us to three different MacDonalds, she was ultimately unsuccessful.  None were still operating.  After a completely enervating two hours, we accepted our fate and scurried off back to the Autostrade and Boscoreale. By now, of course, everything was closed for the usual 2-3 hour lunch break.  We managed a coffee and bun at a restaurant in Peace Square, where preparations were underway for the civic worker’s strike rally scheduled for this evening. Never a dull moment in Italy.

We decided, upon mature reflection, that we really didn’t want to see anything more that Naples might have to offer, but thought we might try for the ferry tomorrow from there to Capri, then to the Amalfi Coast and Autostrada home from there. Meanwhile, a nap is called for……

Pictures to follow - check again later

Naples - Day 1

Victim of Vesuvius frozen in time



Street of Pompeii w/ Vesuvius in the background



Sunset over the Bay of Naples

Lost a day in Rome, killing stolen credit cards and filling out a police report with a scary Italian detective at the Polizia station around the corner.  Unable to contact Canadian Embassy whose ludicrous website emits only numbers unrelated to problems of Canadian citizens and whose automated answering system didn’t seem to cover stolen identity.  Ontario no better.

Drove the Marvells to Leonardo Da Vinci airport for 7:30 am and bid them Bon Voyage, then returned to our B&B to pack and after one last Cappuccino at the corner resto, wove through the morning Rome rush-hour traffic to the Autostrade to Naples.  Arriving early, we stopped at Pompeii to visit the ruins. Awesome and somewhat poignant remains of daily life two millennia ago, snuffed out by the nearby, looming mass of brooding Vesuvius.  Subdued, we repaired to a nearby café for a refreshing libation.  Somewhat rejuvenated by the latter, we decided to try for Sorrento and catch a ferry to Capri for supper.

Alas, Sorrento seems to have only one main, one-way street, one-and-a-half cars wide upon which were displayed the wares of the Tuesday Market.  During evening rush hour.  It seems everyone in Italy owns at least one car and several motorcycles, all of which were swarming the streets of Sorrento.  Some two hours later, after our ever faithful GPS lady; Mable, had directed us down a long, one-car-wide, stone-lined, dead-end alley, from which we had to back out (perilously), with the aid of a patient motorcyclist, we managed to turn around and extricate ourselves.  Now in danger of being late to arrive at our B&B in Boscoreale near Naples, we returned through an only slightly less-congested town, found a nearby Pizzeria (a large “Carne” for 5E) and checked in to the lovely B&B, still in the shadow of Vesuvius.  While waiting for the pizza, a parade of youths carrying a huge banner against some sort of referendum about Vesuvius’ National park passed by, followed moments later by a campaign-style car equipped with loudspeaker, heading in the opposite direction, extorting everyone to vote for something. We returned home to find several Carabinieri at the traffic circle and some broken water pipes.  The cops were still there next morning, but had been replaced by the Policia Finanzia by that afternoon.  After a well-earned shot of fiery Grappa, we called it a day.

No WiFi so this posting will arrive late

Rome - Day 3

After yesterday's experience, we laid low today. We managed to cancel the credit cards which were lifted, Paul's bank card and registered him with Equifax. If any action happens on his file, he will be notified right away. Thank you Perry for helping us

Rome - Day 2

THE Vatican for all of you good Catholics, we got a blessing via satellite from the Pope and everything.

Vatican's crowd getting the blessing with us.

Castel Santangelo, aka Hadrian's Tomb

Trevi Fountain

Spanish Steps

Pantheon



Tram to Termini then bus to Vatican. Pope apparently busy in Spain, so throngs of faithful treated to live Sunday sermon on Jumbotrons at the usual 11:30AM  time. Ate an overpriced lunch in the shadow of St. Peter’s (ironic that the only time we felt ripped-off in Europe was adjacent to the Vatican). Then a brief hike to Castel Sant'angelo.  Entrance was free this weekend, which was a good thing as we were all unimpressed by what’s left of the emperor Hadrian’s tomb.

Walked beside the Tiber and over to the Spanish Steps. Mobs of people and some steps in quite a nice piazza. More walking to the beautiful Trevi Fountain jammed into a tiny opening swarming with tourists chucking coins over their shoulders.

After a refreshing beverage, walked to the nearby Pantheon. Truly magnificent. An engineering/architectural tour-de-force that survives to this day and is still used by The Church as a basilica. The giant dome and marble decorations are stunning.

After a further long walk, we found a bus to the termini and our tram. Home for an Indian supper (for a change) after which Paul discovered his wallet was missing. As we reconstruct it, it was lifted on the tram home. Rome 1, Paul 0.

Well, have to get busy cancelling credit cards, etc.

Ciao.

Rome - Day 1

First sight of the Coliseum coming out of the Subway.



Interior of the Coliseum



Shot of the Forum from the Palatine Hill



Victor Emmanuel monument

Bought a 3-day transit pass at a nearby Tabacci and bravely boarded a tram for the downtown Termini. There we got on the Metro for a long-delayed two-stop trip to the Coliseum. Reggie almost passed out from the heat and crush of passengers, but finally we arrived and debouched right in front of the Coliseum. Still an imposing sight after 2000 years of abuse, it was full of innovations, from the entry/exit system that we still use today that could get 50-70,000 occupants out in 15 minutes, to elevators that brought up animals or other surprises, to the system of poles and tarps (rigged by sailors, who were experts in ropes, etc.) used to shade the masses.  It was built in 10 years and the main stone structure was so massive, mortar wasn’t even used. The stones were pinned together with iron until a later age needed the straps for swords. The marble facing and hundreds of statues, even the columns, were pillaged by later builders, notably the Vatican.

Then a short stroll up the Capitoline Hill to view the Forum Romanum, the commercial, religious and legal center of the Empire, alas in ruins today, but still being excavated. Down the Via Sacra where returning generals held their triumphal processions, to the site of the Senate, the Temple of Vesta (home to the vestal virgins) and the triumphal arches at each end.

Beginning to fade by now in the Roman heat, we limped down the road to the wedding-cake like monument to Victor Emmanuel who finally united Italy in the 19th Century. Speaking of weddings, 6 or 7 brides were being photographed at various points around the Coliseum, it being Saturday and clearly a popular spot for pictures.  On the way we passed a statue commemorating Julius Caesar at whose feet an adoring fan had left a bouquet of roses.  How many people still have adoring fans after 2,000 years?

Then a refreshing beverage at an expensive sidewalk café and home. Forsaking the Metro, we deciphered the bus system and took a bus to the Termini, caught a tram and nearly got off at the right stop!

A long but amazing day. Supper at the neighbourhood restaurant (owned by a Brit) and frequented by Italians who eventually asked us how we had found the place since it was so far off the tourist path. They were relieved to hear it was an accident and we promised not to tell anyone how to get there (but if you’re in the area, it’s called Il Necci on Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 68, Pigneto, Roma....Shhh.)

Ciao

Rome

I have now dipped my toes in 5 oceans and/or seas


Rome, Baby!

Down the coast from Fano on A14 and then through the Apennines again to the eternal city.  Rome is the very definition of chaos (more on that later). No wifi in our back-up apartment (first one forgot to tell us they could no longer take us, after accepting our E100 deposit in January).  Landed accidently in the Piazza de la Repubblica, found our way to the new apartment and discovered we can take public transit to main sites (parking is as usual, a Guerrilla situation).

Wine and fabulous dinner at neighbourhood resto then strolled home thru streets alive with Romans.

San Marino

Town gate

















Shop owner explaining shopping to Reg
















Archery pit where town crossbowmen practiced. Now used for tournaments.

View from funicular station.











San Marino

Leisurely colazione (breakfast) at the B&B then Autostrade (for a change) to San Marino.  After climbing the 657 meter Monte Titano to get to the old town, we eventually found an indoor, 10-story parking lot carved or grafted on to the side of the mountain (how much did that cost?) and took a series of elevators up to the town. Other than being the third smallest country in Europe, issueing endless beautiful postage stamps and showing a modest Changing of THE (ie: one) guard at 2:30 PM (the Premier arrived in a chauffer-driven Audi for the occasion) it’s main feature is an endless series of bling and souvenir stores. I could not find out why one would want to buy a Japanese Samurai sword (“Just like the one in Kill Bill!") as a souvenir of San Marino, but the ladies seemed to enjoy their day.

Update

Finally got some pics up for Siena. To view, look below at Sept. 21st blog.

Feel free to click on the blue `Comment` and post your thoughts so we know you`re following along.

Cheers,
Paul & Reg

Fano on the Adriatic.

Five hours of twisty bits through the Apenines to Fano. Ground-floor rooms 100 feet from the sea (we can hear the waves).


Full moon (and Jupiter) over the Adriatic.

Supper in Fano at a seaside restaurant.

Siena - Sept 21st pm

(Photos courtesy of Rick Marvell)

Nave of the Duomo

A station of the cross inside Duomo.















Marvells in front of main bronze doors

Detail over front door

Section of main pipe organ with trumpets

After lunch, which included some wild boar from San Gimmi, we nipped off to nearby Sienna to see their legendary Duomo; it’s a wedding cake in marble, unbelievably ornate outside and more-so inside with even the floors decorated with marble pictures. Quite possibly the finest church we’ve seen so far, including Florence’s Duomo. Eight candles were lit for Reggie and her siblings in memory of their mother.

After a refreshing lunch and beverage (which a passing Swiss tourist on an electric-assist bicycle assured us was not really German beer) we tracked down the car (Sienna outlawed vehicles downtown in 1966) and hit the road again.

Montereggioni - Sept 21st pm

Montereggioni

Perched on a hilltop near our B&B, is one of the best-preserved medieval walled towns in Italy. Virtually abandoned until 1966, it has been re-populated with about 200-300 people whose lives revolve around the burgeoning tourist trade. The walls are still intact and it has never fallen to enemies. Oddly, parking was relatively easy, and that may be due to the fact that there’s really nothing there. The town is best viewed from the Autostrade where it is impossible to stop and take a picture.

San Gimignano - Sept. 21st

San Gimigiano (second time around)

In the morning, the gang wandered off to San Gimigiano to do some follow-up shopping, while Paul stayed to try and catch up on his picture sorting and back-ups.

Leaving Il Merlo

Sorry, but we don't have internet access easily in Il Merlo. We are on our way to Fano today, Wednesday, September 22nd and hope to be able to post some pictures and comments from there.

Ciao for now! Reggie

Monday, Sept 20th, 2010Cortona -

The house of Frances Mayes, author of Under the Tuscan Sun










View from the ramparts of the town











View up a side street.

Slept in, then after a leisurely breakfast motored east past Siena on the Autostrade (keeping carefully to the right-hand lane) before embarking on the usual, hilarious, tangle of serpentine backroads to Cortona.   No doubt the men are all asking why at this point. Well, it’s a beautiful hill-top village, with Etruscan roots, Roman and medieval blah, blah, blah.  The real reason we made the pilgrimage is that the author of the best-selling book “Under the Tuscan Sun” (which both our wives had read), Frances Mayes lives there and wrote about the village in her books (Oprah recommended it, don’t you know!). The views of the surrounding Tuscan countryside from the summit are breathtaking.

Anyway, after the usual delicious lunch and reinforced by some local wine, we trekked what seemed like four Kms through all the rusticity, followed by some woods to the shrine the ladies were seeking. It appeared that Ms. Mayes was otherwise engaged and the gates did not spring open on our approach.  Took a few perfunctory pictures of the large and lovely home, trekked back to village and immediately repaired to nearest bar.

Refreshed, and followed by a snarling herd of tail-gating Alfas and BMWs, we cruised slowly back to Il Merlo and savoured some more wine with Penne a la Pomodori Secchi and Grappa and cigars on the terrace. The nearly full moon wrote the end to a lovely day.

Il Merlo, Sept 19th

Massa Maritimi Duomo













Casole d'Esta

Terrace of the apartment in Il Merlo

Sorry for the delay in posting, but there is no WiFi here in the mountain, only an internet café, so here is the latest.........

Left Altopascio on Sept. 19th and drove south to Massa Maritimi. Quick tour, great lunch, then off through twisty mountain roads to our B&B at Il Merlo, getting lost along the way a few times.

After unpacking and a delicious meal nearby (restos open from 7-10 PM) retired just before a spectacular thunderstorm which kept the skies lit up continuously for over an hour. The rain brought eventual peace.

Carrera

                              Marble workshop

Rainy day, so grabbed brollies and drove up through the mountains to Carrera where your marble tombstone will come from, if you are so inclined. The marble mines seem to be inside mountains made entirely of marble. They've been in use since Roman times and still produce 20,000,000 tons of marble a year.

Narrow roads are festooned with workshops, showrooms and enormous trucks lumbering down the narrow roads with immense blocks of marble on the back.

The white you can see on the hills isn't snow, that's marble.

We gave up before the top (mine closed because of rain), crossed the gorge to the other side and wound up on a road going back to the town of Carrera through the mountain! Fortunately, it was one way: down.

Sculptor at work

The road down

Moon over Altopascio, Tuscany

Barga

Drove north into mist-shrouded mountains today to see famous English colony in the hilltop town of Barga. So many Brits settled there that they have a fish and chips festival in July. Even saw a couple of pipers in full kit getting ready for a parade.

Medieval Pont di Diavolo. Supposedly, you can drive across it. I vetoed that idea.

Neighbouring hilltop village.

Stone pulpit in Braga's romanesque

Duomo.  No two supports are the same.

Formal private garden